Northern Wheatears (Oenanthe oenanthe) are not really a nemesis bird of mine. That would be Sabine’s Gull. I have seen them (Wheatears that is I’ve never seen a Sabine’s Gull), in Greenland. But they are a bird that I’ve long thought I should see here, and never have. A local bird enthusiast told me when I first arrived back in Arctic Bay (nine years ago this August) that although they could be found on Baffin Island, they were no where to be found near here.
A couple of years ago, however a cinematographer staying at the House told me that there was a pair nesting in the hills above the house. He later rolled an ATV aways down the hill while on his way to film them, cutting short his filming in Arctic Bay. So the next year I went to find them.
One of the joys of living up here, especially this time of year, is you don’t need to find what you are looking for in order to have a fulfilling trip. And there is much joy to be found in the Bird not Seen. Another joy is that sometimes, when you aren’t looking, you’ll find that bird.
This evening, on a lovely summers night, we went for a drive out to the beautiful Uluksan Point, to stretch our legs, to visit the old Qarmat, for an evening of renewal after weeks of gloomy weather. As I climbed a small knob to take a photo of Qarmaq I spied a small bird flitting about higher up, directly into the sun. As I strained against the light with the binoculars I saw a small passerine hawking glowing backlit flies. Because of the light the bird glowed brightly around the edges but as it flew higher I thought I could see a white rump. I thought it might be a Snow bunting but I wondered, and as I wondered I started climbing closer into the sun.
Sure enough it was a pair of Northern Wheatears,
obviously agitated that I was near a nest, their nest and I snapped a few quick, poor shots. All too soon I descended, my family tired of renewal, and watching avinga (lemmings), whistled and called for me to return.
Hopefully tomorrow morning I’ll be back there, getting better shots than these, of these fascinating creatures. They are one of two species from here who migrate not south through North America, but across to Greenland, then Europe and then down to Africa, where James looks after them for our winter.

Comments
5 responses
Wow! Great find.
Very cool. I think you’ve summed up nicely the joys of any bird watching — you may not find what you’re looking for but you’ll find something — even if it’s just a few minutes of peace and quiet! Good find.
Great bird! I have never seen one of those, though occasionally one turns up in the mid-Atlantic.
Clare, you answered the question before I asked because I saw at least 3 pairs of these when walking today. When the dogs are busy digging up sik-sik burrows I scan with my binoculars….just a recent habit and probably to some degree influenced by your blog! Also have seen over 80 tundra swans now moved on and still several pairs of eider ducks around.
Thanks Dave, I enjoyed knowing they were up here but not knowing exactly where, and now I am just enjoying they were up here. Next… Snow Owl.
Thanks again Liza Lee. When we had our picnic out there the other day it was all I could do to keep from going to look at them again. Instead we walked around the lower part of the point picking up other’s trash.
Hi John, they are a beautiful bird and I love the fact that they chose a different route for migration. Hopefully you’ll see the next lost one that comes down your way.
Hey Bonnie, I was surprised to hear that they were found down in Rankin. But when I checked a range map sure enough there was a little pocket of them. I suspect it is only a pocket because of a lack of observations elsewhere.